Dr. Stearns's Tour from London to Paris — Inside the Classic

Having had an inclination to go to Paris for some months past, I went to Piccadilly this day, where I engaged a passage on board the stage coaches, called the diligences, for which I paid five guineas, and was told "That I would be found for that sum, with every thing that might be needful on the way, only I must give about five shillings to the porters."

At Piccadilly I received a card, a copy of which I publish for the information of strangers, and benefit of the owners of the stages.

"The Paris diligences to and from London, set out from the office next the White Bear Inn, Piccadilly, every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday, at five o'clock in the morning. Five guineas each person, for carriage, sea passage, diet and lodging: Port fees excepted. Fourteen pounds luggage allowed; all above to pay three-pence farthing per pound.

"N. B. In case passengers should be detained by contrary winds, they are to pay their own expences from the next day of their arrival at the seaport, to the time of their shipping.

"Also a wagon, every Monday at ten o'clock in the morning, to carry goods and merchandize, which are registered at the said office, and at the Blossoms Inn, Lawrence-lane, Cheapside, where declarations must be delivered in writing, and signed by the owner, of the quality, quantity, and value of the said merchandize, which will be conveyed to Paris in the course of a fortnight, at the rate of seventeen shillings per hundred weight, Custom-house duties excepted. The proprietors, for the conveniency of the public, will discharge the said duties either in England or France, and charge them with the carriage to the person they are directed to, without requiring any interest or commission whatever.

"Attendance at the above offices every day from nine in the morning till seven in the evening, where parcels are registered to Paris, and to every part of France.

"*** Passengers luggage must be sent to the office between six and seven o'clock in the evening, or it will be left 'till the following carriage."

As I was on my way to Piccadilly, I was informed that the king of France was to be crowned on the fourteenth of this month, and sworn to adhere to the new Constitution which has been framed by the National Assembly. This made me anxious to get to Paris as soon as possible: but being told the places were all taken in the coaches, and that it was impossible for me to set off till the 12th, I was obliged to wait till that time, but was informed that I must be at Piccadilly with my trunk, &c. by seven in the evening of the 11th; and I was there at the time; lodged at the White Bear inn, and at five the next morning set off for Paris in company with five gentlemen. A lady in a post-chaise overtook us near Greenwich, and came into the diligence.

We breakfasted at a good inn on the road, and dined at Canterbury, where the lady left us, and at evening reached Dover, where we supped, lodged, and went to breakfast. About eleven in the morning of the 13th, we embarked for Calais, and arrived there in about three hours; but had a very rough passage, in consequence of which almost every lady and gentleman on board was afflicted with sea-sickness, which I believe was advantageous to the greatest part of us.

On our arrival at Calais a great number of French gentlemen came to our vessel, to welcome us to France, and invite us to put up at their houses; but on finding that some of us belonged to the diligences, and that there was a place prepared for our entertainment, they went off disappointed.

Although we had been told that we should have nothing to pay, only about five shillings to the porters, we found ourselves mistaken; for we were obliged to pay for the wine which we drank when we dined and supped on the preceding day, and to give money to a swarm of servants, &c. At Calais we were obliged to give in a list of our names to the Custom-house officers, and to give them some money to buy liquor with, that they might drink our healths--that being the custom, as we were told.

We put up at a hotel, called _De la Messagrie_; where we left another list of our names; for such were the orders of the mayor of the city.

An English lady that had come from Dover with us, and was a decent well-behaved person, and one of excellent sense and understanding, put up at this hotel: she told me she had travelled above 4,000 miles on the European Continent, had been through France, Germany, &c. and was then on her way to Flanders.

At this place we were soon beset with a number of beggars, as

1. By a priest of the order of St. Francis.

2. By the captain of the vessel, that brought us over the English Channel.

3. By the steward of the vessel.

4. By the sailors that came with us.

5. By the poor of the city.

6. By the porters, &c.

We gave the priest some money, and he pronounced a blessing and departed very well pleased. I was told that he and his convents got their living altogether by begging. We gave the captain half a crown a-piece, and some silver, sous, &c. to the other beggars.

In a few minutes another swarm of beggars came that belong to Calais, and as we did not supply all their wants, some of them broke one of the windows belonging to the room where we were sitting, by a rapid stroke with a stick, stone, or some such thing.

We soon sat down to dinner. The table was spread in an elegant manner, with napkins laid in our plates, which we used to keep our clothes clean.

I was asked, _A'imez vous la soupe à la Françoise, Monsieur?_

My answer was--_Oui, Madame_.

Besides soup, we had beef, mutton, veal, rabbits, hares, geese, fowls, pigeons, &c. several sorts of pies, excellent wine, and sweet cakes, figs, appricots, cherries and strawberries; the latter we mixed with white sugar and wine, and eat the composition with spoons, which is the French fashion. Their loaves of bread were about two feet in length, and six inches in breadth, and their knives had picked points, and their forks four tines a piece. Every one of us was allowed a tumbler to drink out of: but the French do not drink healths, though they pretended at the Custom-house, that we must give them money to buy liquor with for that purpose. We did not pay for our wines in France as we were on our way to Paris, as we had done at Dover, &c.

The drinking of healths has been, and still is, too much practised both in Great Britain and America; and especially among the lower class of people. For when Timothy Toss Pot is in company, he says, "_Your healths ladies and gentlemen_," every time he drinks, which will be perhaps fifty times in an evening; whereas it might be as well, nay much better, to drink their healths but once, or not at all, which would save much trouble, and prevent the company from being interrupted with such clamours.

I have asked why the health drinkers do not follow that practice when they drink tea, or coffee; as the Irish woman did when she partook of the sacrament; and have been told, that it is _because it is not the fashion_, and that from hence it has been omitted. The fashion, however, must be followed, right or wrong; for, Out of the fashion out of the world, according to the old woman's scripture: And, When we are among the Romans we must do as the Romans do. For,

"Custom is a living law, whose sway "Men more than all the written laws obey."

Says the poet. Because it is customary I have sometimes been induced to drink healths myself, when I have been in company, through fear that I should be called an uncivil and an unpolite person. But this needless custom is now growing out of use; for our nobility and gentry have discovered that it is superfluous, and many of them have forsaken the needless practice; which example will undoubtedly be followed by the commonality in process of time.

We are told in Bailey's Dictionary, that the custom of drinking healths sprang from Rowena, a beautiful daughter of Hengistus, general of the Saxons. The general invited king Vortigern to supper, and after it was over called for Rowena, who, richly attired, and with a graceful mein, enters with a golden bowl full of wine in her hand, and drinks to the king, saying, "Be of health, lord king:" to which he replied, "Drink health." The king enamoured with her beauty, married her, and gave her and her father all Kent. This was upwards of 1300 years ago.

We are also told in the Historian's _Vade-mecum_, that the custom of drinking healths was in fashion so early as 1134 years before Christ. The accounts do not agree, and which is the truest I cannot tell.

_The Latitude, Longitude, and Description of_ Calais.--_The_ Doctor _and others obliged to wear National Cockades.--English Money and Bank Notes not passable in France.--How Strangers ought to be dressed.--A Table of French Coins, with their Value in English Money.--Of French Measures, in Length._

Calais is situated in latitude 50 deg. and 58 min. North, and longitude 1 deg. and 49 min. East from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich. It is a very pleasant town, invironed with ramparts thrown up at a vast expence.

At this place we found the people under arms, and they seemed to be filled with joy in consequence of the Revolution. We that were strangers, were obliged to put on and wear National Cockades, to prevent being insulted by mobs; and no lady or gentleman was suffered to travel without.

Whilst we tarried at Calais we were informed that English money would not pass in France, and that it would be best for us to get our guineas changed. We therefore took change for some, and received 26 livres for each guinea, although an English guinea commonly passes for but 24 livres in France. Hence, about twelve-pence is lost by the exchange.

Bank notes are not negotiable in France; therefore those that travel into that country, ought to take gold and silver, otherwise they will meet with much difficulty. If you draw on the bankers, they will charge you eight _per cent._ discount; but sometimes it is done at _par_ by French merchants who want to send money to London. No money is allowed to pass in France, unless coined in the present king's reign. Strangers ought therefore to be upon their guard, lest they get imposed upon by taking old coin.

They that go to France ought to dress in the French mode, to prevent being known by sharpers, who sometimes try to take the advantage of those they find to be foreigners.

As it may be of some utility to strangers going into France, I will just add

A TABLE _of_ FRENCH COINS, _with their value in_ ENGLISH.

| £. _S._ _D._ | £. _S._ _D._ A Louis d'or, 24 Livres | 2 0 0 | 1 0 0 A Grand Ecu, 6 ditto | 0 10 0 | 0 5 0 The Ecu, 3 ditto | 0 5 0 | 0 2 6 The Vingt-quatre Sols Piece | 0 2 0 | 0 1 0 A Livre | 0 1 8 | 0 0 10 A douze Sols Piece | 0 1 0 | 0 0 6 A Six Sols Piece | 0 0 6 | 0 0 3 A deux Sols | 0 0 2 | 0 0 1 A Sols 1/2 | 0 0 1-1/2 | 0 0 0-3/4 A Sol, or Sous | 0 0 1 | 0 0 0-1/2 A deux Liard Piece | 0 0 0-1/2 | 0 0 0-1/4 A Liard | 0 0 0-1/4 | 0 0 0-1/8

A louis d'or is a gold coin. A grand ecu, the ecu, vingt quatre sols piece, the livre, a douze sols piece, and the six sols pieces, are silver: though a livre is no coin, but nominal only. The deux sols, and the sols and half, are a mixture of copper and silver, and the other coins are all copper.

The French measure the distances between their towns by leagues, posts, &c. and a post is two leagues, of their measure.

A French league is fifty-seven yards and nine inches longer than an English league.

A French toise, or fathom, is 76-3/4 inches longer than an English; and a French foot is equal to 12-79/100 inches English measure, &c.

_Leaves_ Calais.--_A Description of the Stage Coaches in France.--The_ Doctor _arrives at_ Paris.--_A further Account of the Beggars.--With a Description of the Country._

Early in the morning of the memorable 14th of July we left Calais, and proceeded in a stage coach, drawn by eight horses, on our journey towards Paris.

These coaches are almost as large as a small house. They are very heavy; and eight persons may sit comfortably in the inside, and I believe a dozen more upon the outside. We had a conductor who rode armed on the fore-part of this wonderful machine, and a very large dog sitting upon his rump at the conductor's left hand; both of which were employed as sentinals to guard us on the way.

The harnesses for the horses were made of ropes instead of leather, and were very long. Hence, as our coach was very large and the traces very long, we made a grand appearance as we travelled!

Upon the hindmost and foremost horses, on the near side, two Frenchmen were mounted, with boots of a most surprizing magnitude, so well constructed with leather, wood, and iron, that if a horse falls down the rider is not in much danger of having his legs broke; for the prevention of which, the boots were thus made.

The horses were not quite so large as ours in England; but we drove about five or six miles in an hour, and at the end of every post the horses and postillions were changed. The postillions received twelve sous of us when we parted with them, which gave content.

We breakfasted at Boulogne, dined at Montreul, and in the evening came to Abbeville, where we lodged. The people were in arms through the country. Scarce any body was at work in the fields, as it was a time of feasting, and all seemed rejoiced at the sound of the liberty they expect, in consequence of the great and glorious Revolution.

At this place there was a young lady, who manifested by her actions, which speak louder than words, that she had an inclination to lodge with me that night; but as I had no disposition to deal in such commodities, she was disappointed.

The next morning we set out early, breakfasted at Amiens, dined at the Breteuil, supped at Clermont, and rode all night; but were obliged to pay for our breakfasts out of our own pockets the next morning before we came to Paris. We arrived at Paris about nine in the morning, being the 16th of July, having been four days and four hours on our journey. We were abliged to give the conductor half a crown a-piece; and I spent near three guineas on the way, besides what I paid at Piccadilly.

At Paris we had our trunks searched at the Custom-house, and went from thence in a coach to the _Hotel de Beauvais, Rue des Vieux Augustins, No. 69, Quartier du Palais Royal_, where a gentleman that had come from London with me, and myself, hired three large rooms, neatly furnished, for four livres a-day. We breakfasted at this place, which cost us fifteen sous a-piece each morning, besides what we gave to the servants.

I hired a servant, who remained with me all the time I tarried at Paris: he charged me forty sous per day; but he conducted me so well, that I gave him more than double that sum.

I found Paris very full of people from the country, and from foreign parts. They had met to celebrate the Revolution, and tarried till the next Sunday in order to have another grand convention at the _Champ de Mars_.

Whilst we were on our way from Calais to Paris, we were followed, in some of the intermediate towns and villiages, by swarms of beggars, who seemed to be in great distress. I asked the reason of their begging; and was told that they were reduced to poverty in consequence of the commercial treaty between England and France; that the manufactories in Great Britain were so much cheaper than they were in France, that the merchants bought many of their goods in England, which had thrown those poor people out of employ, and obliged them to beg for a livelihood.

We frequently contributed to the relief of those distressed objects: but because we could not give to every one, some of them threw a stone at our coach, which did not happen to strike any of us. At, and near Paris, we found but a few beggars, in proportion to the great number of people. Some how or another, they seemed to be much better provided for than they were in the country.

The face of the country between Calais and Paris, appears much like many parts of the Province of Quebec, in America. But I think the soil is not quite so rich. Though some have supposed it is full as good by nature as the island of Great Britain; and that it would produce as large crops, if it was as well manured and cultivated. I was told, that agriculture had been much discouraged in France, before the Revolution, by reason of the oppression that the peasants were under.

More then three-fourths of the land between Calais and Paris, appeared to be overspread with grain, consisting of rye, wheat, oats, and barley. There was also some excellent hemp and flax. The people had begun to reap, and there was a sign of a very plentiful harvest; but the crops were not so large in general as they are in England. We saw but a very few cattle, horses and sheep, and those we did see were small. The fields are not fenced, but lie open to the high-way. We often passed by boys holding cows to feed, by lines tied round their horns, to keep them from running into the fields. The wages for reaping are, generally, thirty sous per day. Both men and women follow the business, begin early, and lie down on the ground, and sleep in the open sunshine, at about ten or eleven in the morning; a practice which I esteem to be unhealthy. Perhaps one may see fifty asleep at a time.

_Views and Describes the_ Champ de Mars.--_Goes to the Royal Palace belonging to the Duke of Orleans.--Dines with the French Officers at the Grand Hotel._

On the day of our arrival at Paris, I went in a coach with the gentleman that had put up at the hotel with me, and viewed the _Champ de Mars_. Here we saw great multitudes of people, eating, drinking, and dancing at the sound of the bands of music. At this place the oaths of allegiance had been administered to the people on the preceding Wednesday; and both the king and the subjects were sworn to adhere to the constitution that has been framed by the National Assembly.

Some of the French took me by the hand when I entered into the _Champ de Mars_, and cried, "Entrée, entrée, Monsieur." I viewed the place with admiration, and was informed that it took about fifty thousand people near ten days to erect the seats and other great works there.

The _Champ de Mars_ was formed into a grand amphitheatre, having at one end the military school, against which was erected a covered gallery two hundred and twenty-eight feet (French measure) in length, and twenty-one in heighth, for the king, queen, foreign ambassadors, national assembly, &c. &c. and at the other the triumphal arch; from which, to the military school, on either side were thirty rows of seats raised one above another, two thousand seven hundred and ninety French feet in length. In the middle of the area was an altar in a circular form, whose circumference was six hundred and forty-eight feet, French measure, and whose heighth was twenty feet, built of stone taken from the Bastille. The rest of the area, except the places for the federation, was filled with seats; the whole forming an oblong, capable of accommodating between four and five hundred thousand people. Out of these limits were a number of galleries, erected for a great multitude of spectators. Opposite the triumphal arch, a bridge of boats was thrown across the Seine, and the banks of the river was lined with cannon.

For a great distance round the _Champ de Mars_, a number of temporary buildings were erected for the entertainment of the people.